N-P-K: Reflects the percentage of the nutrient weight per pound of plant food.
N - Nitrogen is the first number. Nitrogen promotes plant growth above the ground. With plenty of nitrogen a plant will grow quickly and have rich green foliage.
P - Phosphorus is the second number. Phosphorus is beneficial for healthy growth. It helps a plant grow strong roots, it helps with flower production, and it helps make plants stronger to resist diseases.
K - Potassium is the third number. Potassium is necessary for growing strong plants. I like to think of it as strengthening the plants immune system. It helps makes them stronger to resist disease, it helps to make them less susceptible to damage from the cold, and it helps protect them from excessive moisture loss during dry spells.
 |
| Comfrey patch. Bees galore. |
NETTLES: Contains many minerals, flavonoids, essential amino acids, proteins, and vitamins. A nettle leaf plant food will have Chlorophyll, Nitrogen, Iron, Potassium, Copper, Zinc, Magnesium, Calcium, and Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combined together to create a tonic and immune builder for the garden.
QUICK method –1 OZ/1 CUP WATER/20 MIN For the quick method, steep one ounce of nettles in one cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method.
LONG method – BUCKET/1-3 WEEKS You can also make nettle garden
fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising
the foliage first. Weigh down the nettles then cover them with water. Fill ¾ of
the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during
the brewing process.
Nettles patch. Wear jeans!!
Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area. Let the mix ferment for one to three weeks stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Strain the nettles and dilute at one part fertilizer to ten parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. The undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition.
When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer. This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders.
VERICOMPOSTING
or Vermiculture--I love my worms!!!
Just what are they doing down there?
They are burrowing little tunnels and runnels that allow water and
nutrients to get to the plant roots.
This also aerates the soil creating
better texture and soil-enhancing properties
including increased porosity and drainage.; impacted soil
prevents good root growth and will even stop growth altogether. Red wigglers (brandling
worms --Eisenia
Foetida or Eisenia Andrei) or
European Nightcrawlers (Eisenia Hortensis) work close to the
surface whereas the typical American Night Crawler can go down as much as 5
feet.
New batch of red wigglers.
Worms eat 3 times their body weight every day creating fertilizer known
as castings or vermicast which are 5 times greater in Nitrogen, 7 times
greater than Phosphorus and 11 times greater than Potassium than the
average topsoil. Vermicast is possibly
the richest organic fertilizer and soil conditioner available. Secretions from the intestinal tracts of
earthworms, along with soil passing through them, make nutrients more
concentrated and available for plant uptake, including micronutrients, such
as calcium, zinc and boron. Castings enrich
the soil with micro-organisms,
adding enzymes such as phophatase and celluase, and plant
hormones such as auxins and gibberellic acid.
Earthworms stimulate microbial decomposition and improve soil structure by encouraging
aggregation of particles. Microbial secretions and growth of fungal hyphae
stabilize the worm castings. Microbial activity in earthworm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil
and organic matter that the earthworm ingests.
Improves water holding capacity. Worm-worked soil is relatively
water-stable and will resist soil compaction and run-off due to rains. Vermicompost offers plants disease-fighting properties; lower
anaerobic rotting odors; and enhanced microbial activity. Harmful
organisms such as Salmonella bacteria are destroyed at a higher
rate. Attracts deep-burrowing earthworms already
present in the soil.
Earthworm activity decreases the amount
of heavy metals present in the soil.
Experiments have shown that as earthworms ingest soil particles
they absorb heavy metals in their gut, decreasing bio-available metals between
35 percent and 55 percent in two months. Plant Growth:
Enhances rates of seed germination. The germination rate was 65 to 70
percent higher in controlled treatments with earthworm compost as compared with
soil that had no earthworms. Increased
availability of soil nutrients results in superior plant growth and crop
yields.
Improves structure and growth of plant
roots. Reduces transplant shock.
Potting soil recipe For seedlings, mix one-part worm compost with three parts potting mix, or three parts soil combined, or equal parts of peat moss, Perlite, and earthworm castings.
In
the garden mix earthworm compost into the bottom of
seeding trenches or
transplanting holes.
House plants:
used as a top dressing for. Lay a thin layer around the plant stem covering the
surface of your potting soil. Each time you water the nutrients will
percolate into the plant roots.
Mulch and soil conditioner for the
garden. Apply a one-inch layer to the soil around plants. Do not pile it
against plant stems.
Soil amendment: spread one-half to two inches
thick over garden soil-mix in before planting.
Worm juice tea is an excellent
booster for seedlings, and young transplants.
Earthworm casting and worm juice teas are superior foliar feeds.
Worm farms are so easy to make. A simple plastic storage bin with drilled holes in the lid works great. 59-77 degrees is ideal. No dairy, meat or wood.
Start with one-half to 1 pound of Red Wigglers. You get about 1000 worms per pound at about $25 to $50 per pound.
EGG SHELLS: A great source of calcium and so easy.
QUICK: Rinse and save them until you have several to process. Bake in the oven at 325 degrees for about 15 minutes. Blend them into a powder and store in a lidded jar. To use simply sprinkle on the soil around the plant. You can work it into the ground, but you don’t need to.
THE LONG AND
BETTER WAY: Fill a gallon jar with eggshells then fill it with water.
Steep for ONE MONTH, allowing the eggshells to dissolve and filter their
essential nutrients into the liquid. To create your foliar spray use 1 cup:
1 quart of water -- transfer to a spray bottle. In addition to calcium,
this liquid is rich in nitrogen,
magnesium, phosphorus
and collagen, all essential nutrients for healthy growth.
Saved eggshells.
AN ALTERNATIVE WAY (I’ve never done this): Bring to boil 20 eggs: 1 gallon of water. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 24 hours. Strain, and store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Use full strength as a foliar spray.
CHAMOMILE contains sources of calcium, potash and sulfur, and as such is good for preventing damping off and many other fungal issues. Pour 2 cups boiling water: ¼ cup chamomile blossoms (or you can use chamomile tea). Let steep until cool, strain and place in spray bottle. This foliar solution will keep for one week.
EPSOM SALTS: contain magnesium and sulfur, and where there’s magnesium there is certainly a correlation to calcium. The magnesium content aids the plant in utilizing other nutrients, such as calcium, more effectively.
Epsom Salts Fertilizer-excellent for use on most any variety of plant, used every 4-6 weeks.
QUICK: 2 TBL EP salts:1 gal water. Combine in sprayer/once a month. Plants, such as roses, tomatoes and peppers, which require higher amounts of magnesium, benefit the most from this spray BUT cut the Epsom salt to 1 tbsp to 1 gallon of water when spraying them.
LONG: 1 t baking powder 1 t Epsom salts 1 t saltpeter ½ teaspoon ammonia Combine with one gallon of water and store in an airtight container.
Green tea: A weak solution of green tea can be used to water plants every 4 weeks: 1 teabag:2 gal water
Gelatin: Gelatin can be a great nitrogen and calcium source for your plants, although not all plants thrive with lots of nitrogen. Dissolve 1 package of gelatin in 1 cup of hot water until dissolved, and then add 3 cups of cold water for use once a month.
Aquarium water – Water your plants with the aquarium water taken out while changing the tank. The fish waste makes a great plant fertilizer.
Compost tea can be made with one part mature compost: two parts of water (this can be done with mulched weeds, herbs or pond weeds too). Let sit for about a week or two and then strain and dilute with water until it looks like a weak cup o’ tea. This makes a fine method of foliar feeding with calcium.
Milk: 1 PART:7 PARTS Plants use calcium for growth. A lack of calcium is indicated when plants look stunted and do not grow to their full potential. Blossom end rot, commonly seen in squash, tomatoes and peppers, is caused by a calcium deficiency. Feeding plants with milk ensures they will get enough moisture and calcium.
Soil will have between 3-4,000# of bacteria per acre (this can
vary depending on sprays, soil type, temps etc...) Bacteria are 90% protein. One can estimate the amount of nitrogen,
potassium and phosphorous by knowing the bacteria counts. Typically speaking
bacteria counts will result in 10-14%
nitrogen, 1% potassium and 3% phosphorous.
The bacteria that are most influential in growth live in the top 6"
of the soil.
Diluted milk. Yes, there was hay in the bucket!
Many thousands of different bacteria live in the soil. Bacteria need a balanced nutrition for good growth. Raw Milk is the perfect food. Some of the bacteria will double the counts/weight every 15 minutes with the proper nutrition and temps (55 degrees F or better). It does not take much for the bacteria to naturally put out 140 lb's of nitrogen per acre and other nutrients.
5 gallons of milk per acre, or about 1 quart of milk per 20-by-20-foot patch of garden. When I finish a glass of milk I fill the glass with water and pour it on my house plants!
Kelp/fish hydrolyze: COMPLETE Most
commercial fish emulsions are rated NPK = 5-1-1.
Most commercial liquid seaweed sprays are rated NPK = 0-0-1.
I LOVE THIS FERTILIZER!!
The real benefit of seaweed is not in its NPK amounts. Seaweed/kelp can contain 60 trace elements, many growth hormones, and disease control properties in it! Basically every nutrient that any surface plant can ever need! If seaweed products are mixed with high N products like fish, you have an excellent complete natural fertilizer and soil amendment that will supply every NPK and trace element need of the soil and plant.
THE BEST IS HOME MADE! There are some nutrients that you get from homemade versions that are not in most commercial brands. For example, commercial fish emulsion since it is processed from trash fish, will have less fish oil, fish bones, and proteins than fresh fish parts or canned fish in a homemade brew.
Aerobic bacteria and fungi are essential to hot composting, disease control, and soil health. In commercial fish emulsions there no little to no aerobic bacteria in the containers. If there were any growing and living in the containers, the bottles would explode on the shelves! Homemade brews always will contain more beneficial microherd than most commercial brands. HOWEVER, I have never made one; I’ll admit it, the odor is scaring me! But, if you want to try I have a recipe; email me for it. I purchase mine from the Amish. They sell it by the gallon!!
COFFEE GROUNDS--Sheet Mulch --it is commonly assumed that coffee grounds make the soil too acidic, but research indicates the grounds tend toward neutral as it decomposes. Be sure to spread it evenly; if you get too much piled up it will mold. It breaks down very quickly.
Side-dressing for Heavy Feeders-- coffee grounds are high in nitrogen, at about 10% depending on the exact beans and extraction process, the carbon to nitrogen ratio of coffee grounds can be as low as 11:1, an ideal ratio for plant and soil nutrition according to WSU extension. With high nitrogen levels, coffee grounds make an excellent side-dressing for leafy greens like spinach and fruiting veggies, like tomatoes and squash, early in their growth.
Natural Slug Deterrent- banding coffee grounds in a uniform circle around the plant as a seedling, and keep the band topped up helps keep the slugs at bay.
Vermicomposting—I occasionally give my worms coffee grounds mixed in as part of a diet of cardboard, shredded paper, kitchen scraps, banana peels and crushed eggshells and tea leaves—herb and black/green.
Suppression of Fungal Diseases--Decomposing coffee grounds have their own type of fungus and mold colonies and those fungal colonies tend to fight off other fungal colonies
The natural mold and fungus colonies on coffee “appear to suppress some common fungal rots and wilts, including Fusarium, Pythium, and Sclerotinia species,” Incorporating coffee grounds into your compost may help to prevent the build-up of nasty verticulum and fusarium wilt inoculates. Put a handful of grounds into the transplant hole for tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant, since these plants tend to be susceptible to various wilts. Coffee ground research: http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/horticultural%20myths_files/Myths/Coffee%20grounds.pdf. A friend of mine always puts 2 Tbl New coffee (unused) into her tomato hole when planting to prevent Fusarium wilt. And her tomatoes are always big, beautiful, and delicious.
NOTE: If you don’t drink coffee, no worries. Used grounds are readily available at your local restaurants!
BANANAS: Put peels into a lidded jar, fill with water and infuse (let sit on the counter) overnight. Drain and use liquid to water plants. Garden AND houseplants love this. Lots of potash, phosphorus, AND calcium.
BENEFICIAL INSECTS: Brachonids,Chalcids and
Ichneumon Wasps
These small beneficial insects
destroy leaf-eating caterpillars. You can attract them to your garden by
planting carrots, celery,
parsley, caraway and Queen Anne's lace, all members of the Umbelliferae family. These plants are easy to grow,
and some should be left to flower. It's the flower that attracts the insects.
We did a beneficial insect study with Lincoln University supported by the Sustainable Agriculture
Research and Education (SARE) program, which is funded by the
U.S. Department of Agriculture- National Institute of Food and
Agriculture (USDA-NIFA).
The row of the three plants extended all the way around our gardens.
Ladybugs consume aphids, mites, whiteflies and scale. They can be attracted to your garden by planting members of the daisy family (Compositae), tansy or yarrow Ladybugs are also available from catalogues online.
Lacewings are avid consumers of aphids, and their larva eat aphids and other varieties of other insect pests. They are attracted to "composite" flowers, such as yarrow, goldenrod, black-eyed Susan’s and asters also Fennel, dill, yarrow, coriander, buckwheat & millet. Lacewings can also be purchased online at the sources listed below and released directly into your garden.
Hover-flies are avid consumers of aphids, and the larva of hover-flies eat aphids and other insect pests. Like the Lacewings, they are attracted to "composite" flowers, such as yarrow, goldenrod, black-eyed Susan’s and asters. Seeds for these flowers are available online, or at most garden centers.
Praying Mantis These large insects have an appetite for most garden pests. Praying mantis eggs are set out in the garden where they hatch and quickly grow to adult size. The eggs are available through mail-order and online catalogues.
We did an extensive research project with Lincoln University here at Rocky Creek on beneficial insects. www.rcvfarm.blogspot.com
COMPANION PLANTS
Although not exactly fertilizers, pairing plant types helps both to thrive. Alliums/nightshade. Asperagus/tomatoes. Brassicas/potatoes. Corn/legume/curcurbits. Basil/tomatoes. And, there are plenty of flowers that make good companions to vegetables as well. I have an extensive list--email me.
PEE-CYCLING: Using human urine as fertilizer has many PLUS qualities if you can get past the ewwww factor. I don’t do this personally because we sell to the public and it would cause all manner of uproar. But, if you are interested, just email me as I have some great info on it I will send you. Recipe: One time pee-in-a-bucket of water +3/4 cup of vinegar and 2 tablespoons of sugar; pour on SOIL NOT plants.
A word about Miracle Grow. NO. NO. NO. Although most of the ingredients are “natural” they are processed to achieve a high nitrogen content making it very UNNATURAL for your plants. And it KILLS the soil microbes. And we love our soil microbes. Plus, Scott, the parent company is buddy-buddy with MONSANTO.
Below is an article from Mother Earth News about organic fertilizers by Steve Soloman. www.soilandhealth.org
NATURAL ORGANIC FERTILIZERS - Mother Earth News
Seed meals are byproducts of making vegetable oil and are mainly used as animal feed. They are made from soybeans, flaxseed, sunflowers, cotton seeds, canola and other plants. Different kinds are more readily available in different regions
of the country. When chemically analyzed, most seed meals show similar nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK)content; about 6-4-2. Because seed meals are used mainly as animal feed and not as fertilizer, they are labeled by protein content rather than NPK content. The general rule is that 6 percent protein provides about 1 percent nitrogen, so buy whichever type of seed meal gives you the largest amount of nitrogen for the least cost. If you want seed meals that are free of genetic modification and grown without sewage sludge or pesticides, choose certified organic meals. Seed meals are less expensive in 40- or 50-pound bags, which can be found at farm stores rather than garden centers. Seed meals are stable and will store for years if kept dry and protected from pests in a metal garbage can or empty oil drum with a tight lid.
Lime is ground, natural rock containing large amounts of calcium, and there are three types. Agricultural lime is relatively pure calcium carbonate. Gypsum is calcium sulfate. Dolomite, or dolomitic-lime, contains both calcium and magnesium carbonates, usually in more or less equal amounts. If you have to choose one kind, it probably should be dolomite, but you’ll get a far better result using a mixture of the three types (recipe below). These substances are not expensive if bought in large sacks from agricultural suppliers. (Do not use quicklime, burnt lime, hydrated lime or other chemically active “hot” limes.) You may have read that the acidity or pH of soil should be corrected by liming. I suggest that you forget about pH. Liming to adjust soil pH may be useful in large-scale farming but is not of concerning an organic garden. In fact, the whole concept of soil pH is controversial. My conclusion on the subject is this: If a soil test shows your garden’s pH is low and you are advised to apply lime to correct it— don’t. Each year, just add amendments as shown in “How Much to Use” below. Over time, the pH will correct itself, more because of the added organic matter than from adding calcium and magnesium. And if your garden’s pH tests as acceptable, use the full recommendations in “How Much to Use” anyway, because vegetables still need calcium and magnesium in the right balance as nutrients. If you routinely garden with this homemade fertilizer mix, you won’t need to apply additional lime to the garden. The mix is formulated so that, when used in the recommended amount, it automatically distributes about 50 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet each year.
Bone meal, phosphate rock or guano (bat or bird manure) all serve to boost the phosphorus level, and phosphate and
guano usually are also rich in trace elements. Bone meal will be the easiest of the three to find at garden centers.
Kelp meal (dried seaweed) has become expensive, but one 55-pound sack will supply a 2,000-square-foot garden for several years. Kelp supplies some things nothing else does — a complete range of trace minerals plus growth regulators and natural hormones that act like plant vitamins, increasing resistance to cold, frost and other stresses.
Some rock dusts are highly mineralized and contain a broad and complete
range of minor plant nutrients. These may be substituted for kelp meal, but I believe kelp is best. If your garden center doesn’t
carry kelp meal and can’t order it, you can get it from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply of Grass Valley, Calif.: (888) 784-1722 www.groworganic.com —Steve Solomon www.MotherEarthNews.com © 2006 Ogden Publications
Steve Solomon’s garden soil and crops show the effects of steady applications of his organic fertilizer. Solomon has written nine books on gardening and maintains an online gardening resource at www.soilandhealth.org
Organic Fertilizer Recipe by Steve Soloman aka: Quick Mix
Mix uniformly, in parts by volume:
4 parts seed meal*
1/4 part ordinary agricultural lime, best finely ground
1/4 part gypsum (or double the agricultural lime)
1/2 part dolomitic lime
Plus, for best results:
1 part bone meal, rock phosphate or high-phosphate guano
1/2 to 1 part kelp meal (or 1 part basalt dust)
*For a more sustainable and less expensive option, you can substitute chemical-free grass clippings for the seed meal, although clippings will not provoke the same strong growth response. Use about a half-inch-thick layer of fresh clippings (six to seven 5-gallon bucketfuls per 100 square feet), chopped into the top 2 inches of your soil with a hoe. Then spread an additional 1-inch-thick layer as a surface mulch.
How Much to Use
Once a year (usually in spring), before planting crops, spread and dig in the following materials.
Low-demand Vegetables: (see lists below)
1/4 inch layer of steer manure or finished compost 4 quarts organic fertilizer mix/100 sq. ft.
Medium-demand Vegetables: 1/4 inch layer of steer manure or finished compost 4 to 6 quarts organic fertilizer mix/100 sq. ft.
High-demand Vegetables: 1/2 inch layer of steer manure or finished compost 4 to 6 quarts organic fertilizer mix/100 sq. ft.
Low-demand Vegetables Jerusalem artichoke, arugula (rocket), beans, beets, burdock, carrots, chicory, collard greens, endive, escarole, fava beans, herbs (most kinds), kale, parsnip, peas, Southern peas, rabb (rapini), salsify, scorzonera, French sorrel, Swiss chard (silverbeet), turnip greens
Medium-demand Vegetables Artichoke, basil, cilantro, sprouting broccoli, Brussels, sprouts (late), cabbage (large, late), cutting celery, sweet, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, garlic, giant kohlrabi, kohlrabi (autumn), lettuce, mustard greens (autumn), okra, potato, onions, topsetting onions, parsley/root parsley, peppers(small-fruited), , potatoes (sweet or “Irish”), pumpkin, radish, (salad and winter), rutabaga, scallions, spinach (autumn), squash, tomatoes, turnips (autumn), watermelon, zucchini
High-demand Vegetables Asparagus, Italian broccoli, Brussels, sprouts (early), Chinese cabbage, cabbage, (small, early), cantaloupe/honeydew,,cauliflower, celery/celeriac, Asian, cucumbers, kohlrabi (spring), leeks, mustard greens (spring), bulbing onions, peppers (large-fruited), spinach (spring), turnips (spring)
No comments:
Post a Comment